Post by a1 on Sept 29, 2011 17:46:31 GMT -5
Stole this from my post on MWAC.
*******IF YOUR AEG IS HAVING TROUBLE, PLEASE READ TO LIMIT QUESTIONS!*******
Last update: Tuesday, June 29th.
PLEASE DO:
Before any AEG dissasembly, be sure that the muzzle is covered, and make sure you have a clean workstation. Aquire the correct tools, and take out any magazines that may be loaded. NEVER point the gun at something you would not want to have destroyed. ALWAYS be sure the AEG battery is removed, and no BB's are loaded in the chamber when doing AEG maintainence. Any accidental discharge is possible. It is recomended that you shoot the gun on SEMI mode to clear and reset the spring in the gearbox, so the parts in the gearbox are not compressed upon opening. If you have to test fire, please take basic airsoft safety into consideration, especially around animals and objects. Work in a clear open, organized space. White works well to locate screws/ pieces. Keep track of your parts!
PART ONE: General AEG troubleshooting
*Priorites will be listed as the FIRST (1). IF PRIORITY (1) FAILS or is ruled out as the problem, read priority (2) and so forth.
===============================================
PROBLEM 1: AEG is not cycling when trigger is pulled; clicking sound is heard, or no sound.
(1) CHARGE BATTERY. If not enough current is being passed through the motor, the motor will fail to function; needs more power. Power comes from the AEG's battery.
(2) CHECK FUSE. When too much or too little current is passed through the fuse, the fuse will be blown and the circuit will not be completed. Replace if necessary.
(4) DISCONNECTED WIRES. Connect any wires that may have been disconnected , or have switched polarity. Make sure you connect Red on Red, and Black on Black.
(5) CRIMPED OR DAMAGED WIRES. If crucial wires (both polarities) are damaged or pinched, current will be disrupted or blocked. Replace wires if necessary, or fix the damaged ones via soldering kit or replacement parts.
(6) BAD SHIMMING: Bad shimming can cause un-even spacing in between gear contacts. If shimming is too tight, the gun will have lower RPM, or the gun may not even "turn over" or cycle. Too loose shimmings will cause strange sounds, dissconnected gear alignment, or faster wear/tear on gear teeth. Re-shim gears properly.
(7) MOTOR BURNT OUT. After a period of time after heavy use of an AEG, the motor coils will be run out of lifespan and eventually could die. Buy a new motor if motor spins weakly with fully charged battery, and none above are relavent.
(8) ANIT REVERSAL LATCH STUCK/MISALIGNED: The anit reversal latch is a metal lever that catches onto grooves on the sector gear so the gears do not spin backwards or re-wind after a shot. Sometimes, during reassembly or dissasembly (though very rare) the latch will be placed either backwards, lopsided, or crooked that can result in jamming or wedging itself into the gear. This will refrain the gear from spinning freely. Please reassemble.
(9) TRIGGER CONTACTS ARE BROKEN. Very rarely, inside the mechbox, the metal contact plates above the trigger switch will be damaged, corroded, or losend which does not allow sufficient amount of current to pass through, completing the circuit. Replace trigger assembly if necessary, or clean corroded plates.
===================================================
PROBLEM 2: AEG IS NOT FIRING and / or FIRING, MAKING HIDEOUS OR GRINDING SOUNDS.
(1) TIGHTEN MOTOR PLATE SCREWS. This would go for most Mod5 series, M4/m16 series, and some G3's as well. The metal plate underneath the motor that keeps the motor in the pistol grip may have come loose, so tighten the plate screws and push up on the plate and see if it shoots then. This is more common than you think. Screws will loosed especially after warm weather use, and constant vibrations.
(2) ADJUST MOTOR HEIGHT. If the motor is too high, it could generate a grinding sound on your sector gear. If too low, same sound can be generated. Adjust motor height by tightening the motor screw located on the motor plate, located underneath the motor in the grip in most AEG models.
(3) BAD SHIMMING. Shims are little metal spacers that create event distance between contact points on gears against gears, and gears against the bushings that allow them to spin freely. If bad shim job occurs, the spacings will be either too tight, or too loose, creating un-even grindings in the mech box. Re-shim your mechbox via experianced mechanics, or your local airsmith.
(4) BROKEN OR STRIPPED GEARS/PISTON. Gears can and eventually will break. The gear teeth can become stripped, creating a grinding sound, or even causing the AEG to not make a complete cycle. Replace broken gears or pistons, and re-shim to be safe.
==================================================
PROBLEM 3: AEG IS FIRING, BUT NOTHING IS COMING OUT!
(1) MAGS NOT FEEDING/NO AMMO! Load magazines, insert mags. If still nothing, lubricate magazines via silicone or White Lithium.
(2) JAMMED BB. Use un-jamming rod or another technique of unjamming to push out jamming source. Make sure you are using High quality BB's.
(3) DIRTY BARREL. Clean barrel.
(4) HOP-UP TURNED TOO HIGH. When the Hop Up dial is all the way up, the hop-up nub may cause the BB to become blocked or wedged in the chamber. Turn down the hop-up to fix.
(5) DAMAGED/ FOLDED BUCKING. The rubber tube that runs the inside of the Hop-up chamber may be damaged over time, causing rips, tears, or folds int the bucking, which in return can block the path of a bb when fired. To fix, either re-align bucking accordingly, or replace with new bucking. NOTE: New bucking needs to be broken in, much like a new pair of shoes to work correctly. MAKE SURE YOU LUBRICATE THE BUCKING!
(6) BROKEN TAPPET PLATE. The tappet plate is what allows the Nozzle to move back, allowing a new round to be inserted into the chamber. If the tappet plate is broken, the nozzle is un-able to move back and forward. To fix, replace the tappet plate.
====================================================
Problem 4: AEG IS SPITTING OUT BB'S AT SHORT DISTANCES.
(1) LOW QUALITY AMMO. The use of low quality ammo can really have an effect on how your AEG preforms. The seams and deformations in low quality ammo (crossman, WalMart, ect) can affect how the BB is shot out of the barrel. Please use high quality ammo.
(2) JAMMED BB's. Be sure no BB's are jammed in the barrel, or hop-up chamber.
(3) DIRTY BARREL. Please clean barrel.
(4) BUCKING ISSUES.
I. The bucking is damaged. Either replace, or re-align, or lube.
II. The bucking is new, and has not been broken in. Please lubricate and continue shooting to break-in bucking.
III. Bucking is folded. Very common problem, just re-align.
(5)HOP UP ISSUES.
I. Hop up is too high, blocking or causing normal cycle of BB's to become disrupted. Lower hop-up.
II. Hop up is damaged, causing deformations in the nub, or bucking. Replace or re-align both.
(6) TOO HEAVY BB's. If your shots are falling right out of the sky, try using lighter bb's. If your gun is shooting @ 300 FPS w/ .3 grams, you would expect this. 300 FPS should be seated fine with .2 grams.
(7) NOZZLE DAMAGED/ NOT MAKING FULL CYCLE. The Nozzle could be damaged, cracked, ect, creating a bad air seal causing most of the compressed air to be leaked, and not directed to the BB. Replace nozzle or broken tappet plate.
(8) DAMAGED AIR SEALS. The air seals are what creates an air-tight enviroment inside the mechbox. Airs seals are the Nozzle, Cylinder, Cylinder Head, Piston Head, and the O-rings inside the nozzle, cylinder head, and piston head. If any of these are damaged, please replace and re-lube.
(9) PISTON TEETH DAMAGED. The piston is what compresses the air inside the cylinder. If teeth are damaged in the piston, the piston won't make a full cycle, or commonly referred to as "short stroking" and therefore not creating the right amount of compression in order to expel the BB from the barrel at the correct velocity.
(10) BARREL TO CYLINDER LENGTH RATIO. Too hard to explain. Technically, the volume of you Cylinder should match the volume of your barrel. If not, the pressure differenciates between seals, and BB's are sort of "suctioned" before they leave the barrel. Ask a professional for more help.
========================================================
PROBLEM 5: BB'S CURVE WIDLEY UP TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT
(1) DIRTY BARREL: Please, for the thousandth time, clean and lube before you decide to rip apart your AEG.
(2) BUCKING ISSUES: Refer to Problem 4, solution (4).
(3) DAMAGED /LOW QUALITY NUB: The nub is the plastic "nub" that sticks down into the hop-up chamber. If this is damaged or out of place, the nub may cause irregular and un-even spin-up when the BB passes underneath it. This can be fixed by making sure everything is in place, lined up, or purchase a new High-quality nub from a dealer.
======================================================
PART TWO WILL BE UP SOON>.<
PART 2
Little things that make you go FFFFFUUUUUU.
PROBLEM 1: The trigger locked up on Semi (Taken from RedWolf Airsoft.)
Even though Tokyo Marui manuals will let you know this is normal sometimes and how to clear the lock-up, some people want a bit more information about this phenomena.
The sector gear of the AEG (which pulls back and releases the piston) makes one rotation for each shot. When the AEG is set on semiautomatic, the sector gear actuates the cut-off lever, which in turn disengages the electric switch. Sometimes the sector gear stops in a sweet spot (in the negative sense of the word), and the cut-off lever is actuated only half way. This prevents the electric switch from being pushed, resulting in a simple click when the trigger is pulled.
When you turn the selector to full automatic, the cut-off lever is moved all the way up. You can now pull the trigger to fire the AEG, and most likely the sector gear will stop in a different position this time.
PROBLEM 2: BB's CURVE WIDLY!
(1) Wind. When shooting, wait for wind to die down.
(2) HOP-UP IS NOT ADJUSTED CORRECTLY. Adjust hop-up, or re-align the hopup unit in the receiver.
(3) DIRTY BARREL. Clean Barrel.
(4) LOW QUALITY AMMO. Please use High-quality Ammo!
(5) LARGE DIAMETER BARREL. The diameter in a stock AEG may not be well suited for precision shooting. The wider barrel allows more are for the BB to move and shift around in when being shot out of an AEG, which could affect the dynamics of BB flight to be affected. To limits this, purchase/ replace the barrel with a precision tightbore at an airsoft dealer.
(6) DAMAGED NUB/BUCKING: Any chip or uneven uncomformity in the Hop Up Nub in the chamber can cause un-even spin up on the bb. Replace or realign if neccessary.
(7) AIR SEALS: Uneven air compression especially in the Nozzle can cause a bb to widly be whipped out of the barrel. Replace/fix seals if necessary.
===================================================
PROBLEM 3: BB's ARE FALLING OUT WHEN MAGS ARE RELEASED.
(1) Normal part of an AEG function. No way in avoiding this.
===================================================
PROBLEM 4: HIGH-CAPS WON'T FEED!
(1) Make sure you wind up High-cap wheel located on the bottom of the magazine. This will continuously feed BB's into gun, until the tension is lost. Wind when mag stops feeding again.
(2) SOME HIGH-CAPS NEED TO BE PUSHED; in the magwell, because of their awkward funtion. Place some electrical tape around the top of the magazine, or in the inside of the magwell to support the mag in the magwell, and allows the feeding tube to make contact with the ejection port on the mag.
(3) BROKEN. After a while, wear and tear will take its toll. Say RIP to that old mag, then buy some new ones.
====================================================
PROBLEM 5: SEMI OR FULL AUTO FUNCTIONS WON'T WORK!
(1) LOOSE SELECTOR SWITCH. Tighten selector switch.
(2) BROKEN SELECTOR SPRING. Those little tiny springs on your selector plate is what keeps it from turning to semi into full auto, if your AEG has both capabilities. Replace or re-insert the little spring located above the selector plate on the exterior of the gearbox, and try again.
(3)BROKEN SELECTOR PLATE. Time to replace it with a new one.
====================================================
PROBLEM 6: AEG BATTERY DIES QUICKLY!
(1) DYING OR DEAD BATTERY CELLS. This happens when a battery gets used over and over again without proper charging and discharging. Time to get a new battery, and a smart charger, so cells die less quickly.
(2) Ni-CAD MEMORY CELLS. If your Ni-Cad battery pack is not discharged before being charged again, it will grow memory cells or crystals, and that causes the battery to loose Miliamp hours, therefore creating a shorter battery lifespan when in use. Please dishcharge Ni-Cad batteries via smart dishcharger.
(3) YOU ARE USING A WEAK BATTERY! Most metal gear box AEG's are reccomended to use 8.4v~11.1v. Please do so. A weaker battery will die faster, and will be limited on it's preformance.
(4) TEMPERATURE/WEATHER: Batteries tend to do better in "warmer" enviroments. Battery life can be affected by extreme cases of Humidity too. If you are playing in the winter, wrap your battery in some hand warmers or cloth.
(5) DAMAGED/CRIMPED WIRES: Sometimes, in the longevity of owning an AEG, batteries will be put into handguards, buttstocks, PEQ boxes, buffer tubes, ect, and wires could be mangled and "pinched". IF, you think this could be it, check all wires from Point A to point B for damages. If any noticable damage is seen, time to re-wire the gun, or fix the damaged section. I've done this A MILLION TIMES since I've owned an AEG, and had to replace numerous wires because of this.
(6) DEAD MOTOR: Dead Motor. Troubleshoot the battery on a different replica, and if preformance on the other replica is better than that of the broken one, then it may be time for a tune-up in the motor department. I do not reccomend assuming this is the case because there are numerous other things that could be causing it.
PART THREE:
RECCOMENDED REPAIR
1) WIRING: Usually comes in 16-18 Gauge, Copper, (TM standard is 16-48, 16 being Gauge type, and 48 being amount of Copper strands that determine the resistance.) Can be found at any hardware store, or electronic specialty store.
2)INTERNAL AEG COMPONENTS: Any of which can be found at any airsoft retailer, best luck with Online retailers that offer wider selection. Choice of Internal components depends on the user and what they feel is necessary.
Some good places to start are:
-www.airsoftgi.com
-www.evike.com
-www.airsoftsmith.com *
-www.airsoftcaroline.com
-www.redwolfairsoft.com *
-www.ebaybanned.com
^All of the above are worth a try. There are other shops that could be near you, so be sure to check. (FEEL FREE TO RECCOMEND ANY OTHER PLACES!!!)
3) AEG's: Check the above listed retailers, and also check your local area for shops/retailers.
*******IF YOUR AEG IS HAVING TROUBLE, PLEASE READ TO LIMIT QUESTIONS!*******
Last update: Tuesday, June 29th.
PLEASE DO:
Before any AEG dissasembly, be sure that the muzzle is covered, and make sure you have a clean workstation. Aquire the correct tools, and take out any magazines that may be loaded. NEVER point the gun at something you would not want to have destroyed. ALWAYS be sure the AEG battery is removed, and no BB's are loaded in the chamber when doing AEG maintainence. Any accidental discharge is possible. It is recomended that you shoot the gun on SEMI mode to clear and reset the spring in the gearbox, so the parts in the gearbox are not compressed upon opening. If you have to test fire, please take basic airsoft safety into consideration, especially around animals and objects. Work in a clear open, organized space. White works well to locate screws/ pieces. Keep track of your parts!
PART ONE: General AEG troubleshooting
*Priorites will be listed as the FIRST (1). IF PRIORITY (1) FAILS or is ruled out as the problem, read priority (2) and so forth.
===============================================
PROBLEM 1: AEG is not cycling when trigger is pulled; clicking sound is heard, or no sound.
(1) CHARGE BATTERY. If not enough current is being passed through the motor, the motor will fail to function; needs more power. Power comes from the AEG's battery.
(2) CHECK FUSE. When too much or too little current is passed through the fuse, the fuse will be blown and the circuit will not be completed. Replace if necessary.
(4) DISCONNECTED WIRES. Connect any wires that may have been disconnected , or have switched polarity. Make sure you connect Red on Red, and Black on Black.
(5) CRIMPED OR DAMAGED WIRES. If crucial wires (both polarities) are damaged or pinched, current will be disrupted or blocked. Replace wires if necessary, or fix the damaged ones via soldering kit or replacement parts.
(6) BAD SHIMMING: Bad shimming can cause un-even spacing in between gear contacts. If shimming is too tight, the gun will have lower RPM, or the gun may not even "turn over" or cycle. Too loose shimmings will cause strange sounds, dissconnected gear alignment, or faster wear/tear on gear teeth. Re-shim gears properly.
(7) MOTOR BURNT OUT. After a period of time after heavy use of an AEG, the motor coils will be run out of lifespan and eventually could die. Buy a new motor if motor spins weakly with fully charged battery, and none above are relavent.
(8) ANIT REVERSAL LATCH STUCK/MISALIGNED: The anit reversal latch is a metal lever that catches onto grooves on the sector gear so the gears do not spin backwards or re-wind after a shot. Sometimes, during reassembly or dissasembly (though very rare) the latch will be placed either backwards, lopsided, or crooked that can result in jamming or wedging itself into the gear. This will refrain the gear from spinning freely. Please reassemble.
(9) TRIGGER CONTACTS ARE BROKEN. Very rarely, inside the mechbox, the metal contact plates above the trigger switch will be damaged, corroded, or losend which does not allow sufficient amount of current to pass through, completing the circuit. Replace trigger assembly if necessary, or clean corroded plates.
===================================================
PROBLEM 2: AEG IS NOT FIRING and / or FIRING, MAKING HIDEOUS OR GRINDING SOUNDS.
(1) TIGHTEN MOTOR PLATE SCREWS. This would go for most Mod5 series, M4/m16 series, and some G3's as well. The metal plate underneath the motor that keeps the motor in the pistol grip may have come loose, so tighten the plate screws and push up on the plate and see if it shoots then. This is more common than you think. Screws will loosed especially after warm weather use, and constant vibrations.
(2) ADJUST MOTOR HEIGHT. If the motor is too high, it could generate a grinding sound on your sector gear. If too low, same sound can be generated. Adjust motor height by tightening the motor screw located on the motor plate, located underneath the motor in the grip in most AEG models.
(3) BAD SHIMMING. Shims are little metal spacers that create event distance between contact points on gears against gears, and gears against the bushings that allow them to spin freely. If bad shim job occurs, the spacings will be either too tight, or too loose, creating un-even grindings in the mech box. Re-shim your mechbox via experianced mechanics, or your local airsmith.
(4) BROKEN OR STRIPPED GEARS/PISTON. Gears can and eventually will break. The gear teeth can become stripped, creating a grinding sound, or even causing the AEG to not make a complete cycle. Replace broken gears or pistons, and re-shim to be safe.
==================================================
PROBLEM 3: AEG IS FIRING, BUT NOTHING IS COMING OUT!
(1) MAGS NOT FEEDING/NO AMMO! Load magazines, insert mags. If still nothing, lubricate magazines via silicone or White Lithium.
(2) JAMMED BB. Use un-jamming rod or another technique of unjamming to push out jamming source. Make sure you are using High quality BB's.
(3) DIRTY BARREL. Clean barrel.
(4) HOP-UP TURNED TOO HIGH. When the Hop Up dial is all the way up, the hop-up nub may cause the BB to become blocked or wedged in the chamber. Turn down the hop-up to fix.
(5) DAMAGED/ FOLDED BUCKING. The rubber tube that runs the inside of the Hop-up chamber may be damaged over time, causing rips, tears, or folds int the bucking, which in return can block the path of a bb when fired. To fix, either re-align bucking accordingly, or replace with new bucking. NOTE: New bucking needs to be broken in, much like a new pair of shoes to work correctly. MAKE SURE YOU LUBRICATE THE BUCKING!
(6) BROKEN TAPPET PLATE. The tappet plate is what allows the Nozzle to move back, allowing a new round to be inserted into the chamber. If the tappet plate is broken, the nozzle is un-able to move back and forward. To fix, replace the tappet plate.
====================================================
Problem 4: AEG IS SPITTING OUT BB'S AT SHORT DISTANCES.
(1) LOW QUALITY AMMO. The use of low quality ammo can really have an effect on how your AEG preforms. The seams and deformations in low quality ammo (crossman, WalMart, ect) can affect how the BB is shot out of the barrel. Please use high quality ammo.
(2) JAMMED BB's. Be sure no BB's are jammed in the barrel, or hop-up chamber.
(3) DIRTY BARREL. Please clean barrel.
(4) BUCKING ISSUES.
I. The bucking is damaged. Either replace, or re-align, or lube.
II. The bucking is new, and has not been broken in. Please lubricate and continue shooting to break-in bucking.
III. Bucking is folded. Very common problem, just re-align.
(5)HOP UP ISSUES.
I. Hop up is too high, blocking or causing normal cycle of BB's to become disrupted. Lower hop-up.
II. Hop up is damaged, causing deformations in the nub, or bucking. Replace or re-align both.
(6) TOO HEAVY BB's. If your shots are falling right out of the sky, try using lighter bb's. If your gun is shooting @ 300 FPS w/ .3 grams, you would expect this. 300 FPS should be seated fine with .2 grams.
(7) NOZZLE DAMAGED/ NOT MAKING FULL CYCLE. The Nozzle could be damaged, cracked, ect, creating a bad air seal causing most of the compressed air to be leaked, and not directed to the BB. Replace nozzle or broken tappet plate.
(8) DAMAGED AIR SEALS. The air seals are what creates an air-tight enviroment inside the mechbox. Airs seals are the Nozzle, Cylinder, Cylinder Head, Piston Head, and the O-rings inside the nozzle, cylinder head, and piston head. If any of these are damaged, please replace and re-lube.
(9) PISTON TEETH DAMAGED. The piston is what compresses the air inside the cylinder. If teeth are damaged in the piston, the piston won't make a full cycle, or commonly referred to as "short stroking" and therefore not creating the right amount of compression in order to expel the BB from the barrel at the correct velocity.
(10) BARREL TO CYLINDER LENGTH RATIO. Too hard to explain. Technically, the volume of you Cylinder should match the volume of your barrel. If not, the pressure differenciates between seals, and BB's are sort of "suctioned" before they leave the barrel. Ask a professional for more help.
========================================================
PROBLEM 5: BB'S CURVE WIDLEY UP TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT
(1) DIRTY BARREL: Please, for the thousandth time, clean and lube before you decide to rip apart your AEG.
(2) BUCKING ISSUES: Refer to Problem 4, solution (4).
(3) DAMAGED /LOW QUALITY NUB: The nub is the plastic "nub" that sticks down into the hop-up chamber. If this is damaged or out of place, the nub may cause irregular and un-even spin-up when the BB passes underneath it. This can be fixed by making sure everything is in place, lined up, or purchase a new High-quality nub from a dealer.
======================================================
PART TWO WILL BE UP SOON>.<
PART 2
Little things that make you go FFFFFUUUUUU.
PROBLEM 1: The trigger locked up on Semi (Taken from RedWolf Airsoft.)
Even though Tokyo Marui manuals will let you know this is normal sometimes and how to clear the lock-up, some people want a bit more information about this phenomena.
The sector gear of the AEG (which pulls back and releases the piston) makes one rotation for each shot. When the AEG is set on semiautomatic, the sector gear actuates the cut-off lever, which in turn disengages the electric switch. Sometimes the sector gear stops in a sweet spot (in the negative sense of the word), and the cut-off lever is actuated only half way. This prevents the electric switch from being pushed, resulting in a simple click when the trigger is pulled.
When you turn the selector to full automatic, the cut-off lever is moved all the way up. You can now pull the trigger to fire the AEG, and most likely the sector gear will stop in a different position this time.
PROBLEM 2: BB's CURVE WIDLY!
(1) Wind. When shooting, wait for wind to die down.
(2) HOP-UP IS NOT ADJUSTED CORRECTLY. Adjust hop-up, or re-align the hopup unit in the receiver.
(3) DIRTY BARREL. Clean Barrel.
(4) LOW QUALITY AMMO. Please use High-quality Ammo!
(5) LARGE DIAMETER BARREL. The diameter in a stock AEG may not be well suited for precision shooting. The wider barrel allows more are for the BB to move and shift around in when being shot out of an AEG, which could affect the dynamics of BB flight to be affected. To limits this, purchase/ replace the barrel with a precision tightbore at an airsoft dealer.
(6) DAMAGED NUB/BUCKING: Any chip or uneven uncomformity in the Hop Up Nub in the chamber can cause un-even spin up on the bb. Replace or realign if neccessary.
(7) AIR SEALS: Uneven air compression especially in the Nozzle can cause a bb to widly be whipped out of the barrel. Replace/fix seals if necessary.
===================================================
PROBLEM 3: BB's ARE FALLING OUT WHEN MAGS ARE RELEASED.
(1) Normal part of an AEG function. No way in avoiding this.
===================================================
PROBLEM 4: HIGH-CAPS WON'T FEED!
(1) Make sure you wind up High-cap wheel located on the bottom of the magazine. This will continuously feed BB's into gun, until the tension is lost. Wind when mag stops feeding again.
(2) SOME HIGH-CAPS NEED TO BE PUSHED; in the magwell, because of their awkward funtion. Place some electrical tape around the top of the magazine, or in the inside of the magwell to support the mag in the magwell, and allows the feeding tube to make contact with the ejection port on the mag.
(3) BROKEN. After a while, wear and tear will take its toll. Say RIP to that old mag, then buy some new ones.
====================================================
PROBLEM 5: SEMI OR FULL AUTO FUNCTIONS WON'T WORK!
(1) LOOSE SELECTOR SWITCH. Tighten selector switch.
(2) BROKEN SELECTOR SPRING. Those little tiny springs on your selector plate is what keeps it from turning to semi into full auto, if your AEG has both capabilities. Replace or re-insert the little spring located above the selector plate on the exterior of the gearbox, and try again.
(3)BROKEN SELECTOR PLATE. Time to replace it with a new one.
====================================================
PROBLEM 6: AEG BATTERY DIES QUICKLY!
(1) DYING OR DEAD BATTERY CELLS. This happens when a battery gets used over and over again without proper charging and discharging. Time to get a new battery, and a smart charger, so cells die less quickly.
(2) Ni-CAD MEMORY CELLS. If your Ni-Cad battery pack is not discharged before being charged again, it will grow memory cells or crystals, and that causes the battery to loose Miliamp hours, therefore creating a shorter battery lifespan when in use. Please dishcharge Ni-Cad batteries via smart dishcharger.
(3) YOU ARE USING A WEAK BATTERY! Most metal gear box AEG's are reccomended to use 8.4v~11.1v. Please do so. A weaker battery will die faster, and will be limited on it's preformance.
(4) TEMPERATURE/WEATHER: Batteries tend to do better in "warmer" enviroments. Battery life can be affected by extreme cases of Humidity too. If you are playing in the winter, wrap your battery in some hand warmers or cloth.
(5) DAMAGED/CRIMPED WIRES: Sometimes, in the longevity of owning an AEG, batteries will be put into handguards, buttstocks, PEQ boxes, buffer tubes, ect, and wires could be mangled and "pinched". IF, you think this could be it, check all wires from Point A to point B for damages. If any noticable damage is seen, time to re-wire the gun, or fix the damaged section. I've done this A MILLION TIMES since I've owned an AEG, and had to replace numerous wires because of this.
(6) DEAD MOTOR: Dead Motor. Troubleshoot the battery on a different replica, and if preformance on the other replica is better than that of the broken one, then it may be time for a tune-up in the motor department. I do not reccomend assuming this is the case because there are numerous other things that could be causing it.
PART THREE:
RECCOMENDED REPAIR
1) WIRING: Usually comes in 16-18 Gauge, Copper, (TM standard is 16-48, 16 being Gauge type, and 48 being amount of Copper strands that determine the resistance.) Can be found at any hardware store, or electronic specialty store.
2)INTERNAL AEG COMPONENTS: Any of which can be found at any airsoft retailer, best luck with Online retailers that offer wider selection. Choice of Internal components depends on the user and what they feel is necessary.
Some good places to start are:
-www.airsoftgi.com
-www.evike.com
-www.airsoftsmith.com *
-www.airsoftcaroline.com
-www.redwolfairsoft.com *
-www.ebaybanned.com
^All of the above are worth a try. There are other shops that could be near you, so be sure to check. (FEEL FREE TO RECCOMEND ANY OTHER PLACES!!!)
3) AEG's: Check the above listed retailers, and also check your local area for shops/retailers.